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Istanbul — A Day In Balat

For the next day in Istanbul, we decided to stay in the Balat area, where the rental house was located. Before breakfast, I headed out into the street for some exploration. Our rental house was located near the top of a steep street, where I made this image.

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Apartment In Balat, Istanbul

Balat is an old area of Istanbul. There is a mixture of dilapidated houses, that are gradually deteriorating, and houses that have been remodeled and renovated. The really old houses have some interesting textures, as can be seen in this image, where plaster had fallen off the wall to reveal underlying brickwork.

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Wall Texture And Window, Balat

Making my way down the steep street, I encountered the colorful flower boxes along one storefront.

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Flower Boxes, Balat

Like many cities around the world, this area is becoming increasingly more gentrified. These three houses, in Kiremit Street, are typical of the remodeled houses in Balat.

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Kiremit Street Houses, Balat

Another street was lined with black bollards to keep cars off the sidewalk.

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Balat Street In The Morning

I eventually returned to the top of street, above the rental house, where I encountered several other early risers who had hit the streets.

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Street Scene, Balat

After breakfast, we decided to do some shopping in the nearby stores. While making our way there, we stopped at the Fatih Mosque. This is, perhaps, one of the most beautiful mosques in Istanbul. The main worship area has lighting located about 10 feet above the floor. In this image, I captured the fabulous domed ceilings that had chains that suspended the lights.

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Suspension Chains From Ceiling, Fatih Mosque

This mosque also had a huge red carpeted floor. The carpet included intricately detailed designs that can be seen in the following image.

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Carpeted Floor, Fatih Mosque

Passing by the main entrance, I made the following image of the mosque’s courtyard, where ablution facilities are located.

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Looking Out Of Fatih Mosque

Like many of the Turkish mosques, the heavy doors were decorated with geometric designs.

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Main Entrance Door, Fatih Mosque

After exiting the mosque through the main entrance, I stopped by the ablution fountain to make this image.

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Ablution Fountain, Fatih Mosque

The mosque had many domes that were included in the design of the roofs around the courtyard. At the peak of the dome, is an ornament, usually golden in color. I am sure that these dome ornaments have a name, but I have not yet found reference to this in various internet searches. I made this image that included the roof line with ornament against the blue sky.

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Dome Roof Ornament, Fatih Mosque

Leaving the mosque, we made our way to the stores. Some of the stores are really specialized. In this image, the vendor only sells dates. These have been harvested from various areas and countries around the middle east.

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Date Street Vendor, Istanbul

The Turks are really enterprising people. In this image, one can get knives sharpened in the street. This vendor had setup his grindstones on a cart in the street. That guy in the orange shirt was amused by my interest in making photographs of the knife grinder!

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Sharpening Knives, Istanbul

During the afternoon, we made our way down the streets of Balat. We found these two chidren enjoying a ride in the steep streets. They were fortunate that there were few cars in the area to spoil there enjoyment!

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Children Enjoying Downhill Ride, Balat

We also passed this one really steep street, lined with really coloful houses.

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Colorful Houses On Steep Street, Balat

At the bottom of the street, Susan and Warwick found a cat sleeping on the porch roof above a doorway.

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Susan And Warwick, And Cat, Balat

This cat was the source of interest!

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The Cat, Balat

Susan and Angela visited the Turkish baths, while Warwick and I walked through the streets. One interesting building house the “Hobbit House” that serves breakfast.

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Balat Hobbit House

Here is another street scene that we found in Balat, where these two guys were chatting out in a street full of colorful houses.

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Balat Street Scene

Further along the same street, we arrived at back of the Hobbit House, when I found several bikes parked on the sidewalk.

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Bikes Behind Hobbit House, Balat

After meeting up with Angela and Susan, we all went for dinner at one of the local restaurants that had been recommended by our landlord.

 

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Istanbul Continued

Our tour had finished in Istanbul and we had a few days to spend. Susan and her boyfriend, Warwick, had arrived from London during the night and would only wake later in the morning. I headed out of the hotel early before breakfast. Out in the street, recyclers were busy reclaiming recycled trash. This is an important source of income to these folks, who are mainly refugees from other countries outside Turkey.

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Trash Recyclers, Istanbul

Nearby streets are empty, after late night revelers had filled the streets.

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Empty Street, Istanbul

I headed down to the Eminonü waterfront. Several fishermen were draped over the railing, attempting an early morning catch.

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Early Morning Fishermen, Eminonu Waterfront, Istanbul

I watched as this guy caught a fish. He was very pleased with the catch that he made a photograph with his smartphone. Perhaps it was his first catch?

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Photographing My Catch, Istanbul

It was time to return to the hotel for breakfast. After a couple of hours, Susan had surfaced; she had arrived at 2am in the morning after a delayed flight. All four of us loaded into a taxi and headed to a rental house in the Balat area of Istanbul.

After unpacking and meeting the landlord, Peter, we headed to the Basilica Cistern. All of us had read Dan Brown’s book “Inferno”, also made into a movie. The final location for the book was set in this cistern. This cistern was built during Roman times under the city, and is one of many cisterns below the city.

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Basilica Cistern, Istanbul

One of the pillars supporting the roof of the cistern is built on a Medusa head. The base of this pillar has two heads, one on its side (pictured below), and one upside down. These Medusa heads supposedly ward off evil.

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Basilica Cistern Medusa Head, Istanbul

Later, we headed across to the cafe near the Blue Mosque (avoiding the carpet salesmen), where Warwick wanted to smoke a Hookah (or Shisha). Angela also decided to try it out.

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Angela With Hookah, Istanbul

Here is Warwick.

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Warwick With Hookah, Istanbul

And Susan too!

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Susan With Hookah, Istanbul

Our landlord had recommended that we head up to the rooftop of the Pera Palace Hotel for sunset. Here there is a great view of the city of Istanbul that we enjoyed with a sun-downer. In this image, we look down on the Galata tower, foreground left. The Blue Mosque, with its six minarets, can be seen in the background on the left. In the distance is the sea of Marmara.

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Sunset View From Pera Palace Hotel, Beyoglu, No 1

Panning to the right is a view looking down to the Haliç Metro bridge. The Metro railway crosses the Haliç (Golden Horn) over this bridge. There is also a station located in the middle of this bridge.

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Sunset View From Pera Palace Hotel, Beyoglu, No 2

As the sun set over the horizon, I made this image of the skyline with pink/purple skies.

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Sun Setting Over Istanbul

In the opposite direction, the lights of Bosphorus bridge had switched on. The Bosphorus separates the European side of the city from the Asian side of the city.

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Bosphorus Bridge After Sunset, Istanbul

It was time for us to find dinner. I made this image of the bar lights with the skyline at blue hour.

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Bar Lights, Istanbul

Enjoy.

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Friday was the last full day of our tour of Turkey, which was the return trip to Istanbul from Safranbolu. We stopped at one of the rest areas for a bio-break and for snacks. The rest areas have a store that sell snacks and beverages. However, many of the rest areas around Turkey, also have stores that sell other merchandise. This rest had stores that sell clay pots and furniture, so of which are shown in this image.

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Rest Area Store, No 1

Also on sale were various fruits and nuts. In the following image, I captured a display of hazelnuts, walnuts and almonds. During our tour, we visited many rest areas that had similar nuts on sale.

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Rest Area Store, No 2

This rest area also had an extensive selection of Turkish delight candies and Baklava on sale, that are captured in the image below.

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Rest Area Store, No 3

We arrived in Istanbul, crossing the Bosphorus Bridge, and arriving at the Golden Horn hotel. This was the same hotel from which we had departed two weeks earlier. Soon after checking in to the hotel, Angela, Julie and I headed for the Spice Bazaar that was close by, in Eminonu. We stopped by one of the spice vendors that was recommended to us. This vendor also had a selection of various teas for sale.

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Spice Bazaar Teas, Istanbul

I was fascinated by the balls of Jasmine Tea that I captured below.

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Big Jasmen Tea, Spice Bazaar

Here are the spices that were on display.

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Spices, Spice Bazaar, Istanbul

Walking through the bazaar, we passed by a booth where the vendor was selling a colorful variety of soaps.

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Soaps, Spice Bazaar, Istanbul

Leaving the bazaar, we headed for the Eminonu waterfront. Angela was fascinated by this roast chestnut vendor.

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Roast Chestnut Vendor

This vendor was busy organizing the chestnuts into neat and tidy pyramids for display.

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Organizing Roast Chestnuts

Following this weekend was the one of the Turkish holidays, so there were crowds of people in the bazaar and surrounding area. The gardens outside the bazaar was full of people of all ages. In the following image, I captured a pebble bed surrounding one of the trees. The design in the pebbles represents the shape of tulips which are the Turkish national flower.

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Gardens Outside Spice Bazaar

Two ladies were deep in conversation at the edge of the tulip bed.

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Ladies Outside Spice Bazaar

We stopped at the Eminonu waterfront. Moored at the waterfront were several boats that functioned as floating kitchens.

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Floating Kitchens, Istanbul

The main food prepared in theses kitchens are grilled fish sandwiches. The cooks grill the fish in the floating kitchen. Sandwich orders are taken from the shore, prepared by the cooks and eaten in the dining area on shore.

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Fish Grill, Floating Kitchen, Istanbul

At the lower level of the Galata Bridge, several workers were sitting in line, taking a break at the end of the day. Several workers were dressed in distinctive bright orange clothes that caught my attention in the following image.

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Workers Taking A Break At End Of The Day, Istanbul

Soon it was time to return to our hotel, where we would regroup for the final dinner with our tour group and Tolga our tour guide. This was the conclusion of our tour group.

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Friday morning, I woke early and headed out of our hotel before breakfast. Our hotel (Akçe) was also an Ottoman style house with a beautiful well-groomed garden.

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Akce Hotel Safranbolu

Heading down the cobbled streets, I headed to the town square by the public baths. I waited until a early morning visitor entered the scene and made this image.

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View Cobbled Street To Public Baths

I had passed by these circular benches earlier. Returning later, a white cat had climbed onto the bench and provided me an opportunity for a more interesting composition below.

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White Cat On Circle Bench At Sunrise

Heading back to the hotel for breakfast, several men had gathered on a bench in the town square, chatting and watching pigeons in this image.

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Sitting By The Pigeons, Safranbolu

After breakfast, Angela and I headed back, doing some shopping. At the mosque, close to the public baths, I made this image of the roof domes. Each of the domes has an ornament (I am not sure of the name) that appears to be the shape of a crescent moon.

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Mosque Roof Domes, Safranbolu

This mosque had a minaret at one of the corners of the main building. Positioning myself below the minaret, I made this image looking directly up at the minaret.

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Mosque Minaret, Safranbolu

At the rear or the public baths, washing lines were loaded with towels to dry. Perhaps they had been washed and put out to dry?

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Loaded Washing Lines, Public Baths

An archway leads to the front entrance to the baths. I had noticed the two men, sitting on the left in this image, engrossed in their smartphones. Both men had been sitting there for over a half hour without moving!

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Entrance To Public Baths, Safranbolu

At one of the cobbled street corners close to the baths, over a dozen cats had congregated, waiting for food. I found one cat under a bench, gazing out at the action in the street.

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Cat Under Bench, Safranbolu

We stopped at the saffron store, where Angela bought some saffron. I made this image of the store owner waiting in the doorwar for the next customer. This storefront was adorned with several posters and signs extolling the virtues of saffron and advertising other goods for sale.

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Safron Vendor, Safranbolu

We passed a perfume store, where bottles of perfume were lined up along the window ledge. As soon as I saw the donkey, I could not help but make this image.

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Perfume Bottles And Donkey In Window, Safranbolu

Various stores were selling fabric goods. Stopping at one of theses stores, I made this image of a pile of colorful fabrics.

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Colorful Fabrics, Safranbolu

Another store had glassware, that I captured here.

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Glassware In Window, Safranbolu

Many of the cities and towns that we visited in Turkey, had stores selling lamps and lampshades. I found one store that had glass lanterns hanging in the front. The purple glass had a really striking color that is captured in this image.

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Purple Glassware

Soon afterwards, we headed back to the hotel to join the rest of the tour group, to return on the final leg of the journey back to Istanbul.

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Touring Turkey — part 12 — Safranbolu

Our tour group left Göreme (Cappadocia) early on a Thursday morning, heading to for Safranbolu. The route we followed skirted around Turkey’s capital (Ankara), so this journey took some 5 or 6 hours to complete. Safranbolu was an important route for caravans along the Silk Route (the east/west trade route). The town was also in a growing region for saffron. Today, the Old Town of Safronbolu is a Unesco heritage site. Soon after arriving checking in to our hotel, we met by one of the town squares, near the public baths. In this image, I captured the baths and one of the many cobbled streets.

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Outside The Public Baths, Safranbolu

The baths have interesting domed roofs. One feature of the roofs are many small glass-domed windows. These can be seen in the following image.

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Roof Domes, Public Baths

Many buildings in the town are in Ottoman style. We visited the Ottoman museum, which is an example of an Ottoman style houses. This is an image of the museum from the tea garden.

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Ottoman Museum, Safranbolu

The museum is an exhibit of the typical lifestyle of Ottoman families. Various rooms in the museum show typical furnishings of Ottoman houses. From the third floor of the museum, one can appreciate the view of many of houses in Old Town.

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View Across The Rooftops, Safranbolu

The terracotta roof of the nearby building is adorned with many chimneys, that I attempted to capture in these two images.

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Rooftops, Safranbolu

Our visit to the museum was followed by saffron flavored tea in the tea garden. We then meandered through the streets, shopping at some of the stores, while making our way back to the hotel. Blue hour had arrived and lights around town were lit. In this image, I captured the mosque, lit by street lighting against a deep blue sky. I made sure to include the moon in this image.

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Mosque At Dusk, Safranbolu

More to come.

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City Park — Frozen Morning

Last Saturday morning, we joined an Audobon birding group at Denver City Park. Canada geese were the most common species. The smaller ponds and lakes in the park were populated with hundreds of geese. We also saw Buffelhead ducks and Northern Shovelers. It was a freezing morning; the main lake was iced over except for a few areas of open water. I took the opportunity of making this panorama.

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View Towards Mountains From City Park, No 2

This was converted to monochrome with Snapseed.

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Arriving in Göreme, we checked in to the hotel. Some of us managed to take a dip in the swimming pool. Our tour included a visit to an exhibition of Whirling Dervishes. This involves a trance-like dance. After the main dance, some of the dancers performed for a photo shoot.

Dervish Dancer, Cappadocia

Dervish Dancer, Cappadocia

These two images are the best examples of the Dervhishes.

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Dervish Dancer No 2, Cappadocia

Following this event we headed for dinner. Most of the tour members chose to do a flight in a hot air balloon. Göreme is a popular location for hot air ballooning in Cappadocia. I chose not to make a flight so that I could capture some balloon pics. The launch site was a short walk from the hotel. I made my way there just before sunrise. Approaching the site, some of the balloons had already launched. In this image, I captured the balloon against contrail clouds that were lit by the rising sun.

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Hot Air Balloons And Clouds At Sunrise, Cappadocia

The launch site is surrounded by several hills and valleys. The following image captured a colorful balloon lifting off from one of the valleys.

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Balloon Lift Off In Valley

Soon after, I heard my name called out. The call came from members of our tour group — they were riding in the balloon below.

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Kaya Balloons

After a few minutes, most of the balloons had left on their sunrise flight. I headed towards the Fairy Chimneys. In the image, the last balloon caught light from the rising sun as it was flying above the chimney formations.

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Balloons Above Fairy Chimneys At Sunrise

In this image, I captured the five chimneys, with the town of Göreme in the distance.

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Fairy Chimneys At Dawn

Close by was a cave in one of the chimneys. These are volcanic rock formations and are relatively soft. The cave had been carved out by hand and tools. In the following image, one can see the gouged tool marks on the rock surfaces inside the cave.

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Inside The Excavated Cave

Later in the morning, our group visited the Göreme Open-Air Museum. This is the site of many churches and chapels that were carved into the volcanic rock. This is the entrance to one of the churches that a located here.

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Church In Goreme Open Air Museum

Angela was visiting one of the other churches. I made this image of her gazing out across the museum.

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Angela, Looking Out Over Museum

Several other visitors made the trip to the museum. I made this portrait of a lady and her child, taking a break from the sun.

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Mother And Child, Open Air Museum

After visiting the museum, we headed out to the museum store while wait to regroup. Here is another image of Angela, checking mail on her phone.

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Angela, Open Air Museum

Another image of Tolga, our tour group leader.

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Tolga, Open Air Museum

In this image, I captured Vicky, as she was taking a break after checking her phone.

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Vicky, Open Air Museum

Lunch was in a restaurant in Göreme. I could not help but make this image of colorful pots, hanging on the restaurant wall.

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Pots Hanging In Restaurant, Goreme

On the following morning, Angela and I headed close to the launch site. She had missed the balloon launch the previous morning. This image shows several balloons over Göreme.

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Balloons Over Goreme, Cappadocia

That’s all for now.

 

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Leaving Konya, we headed on our journey towards Cappadocia. Our first stop was the Caravanserai at Aksaray. Caravanserai were built along the Silk Road through Turkey, spaced at intervals of about 30 miles apart. The Silk Road continued through the Middle East, eventually ending in China. The modern day equivalent of a caravanserai would be an Inn or Motel. This caravanserai was built in 1229, about the era of the Seljuk empire in Turkey. The main entrance portal to the caravanserai is shown below.

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Caravanserai Entrance Portal, Aksaray

The arch above the portal has some exquisite detail. The image below was taken from below the arch, looking straight up.

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Portal Stonework Detail

On the walls, at either side of the entrance are fine detailed patterns carved into the stonework. An example of this detail is captured below.

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Exterior Stonework Detail, Caravanserai

Inside the caravanserai walls, is a large courtyard, with a small tower.

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Courtyard, Caravanserai

At the end of the caravanserai (the western side), are these huge halls. These were used to store goods of the traveling caravans and served as quarters for their pack animals (camels and horses). Here is an image with Angela looking up, in awe, at the high ceilings of these halls.

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Storage Halls, Caravanserai

The caravanserai has some real architectural gems. I found these red flowers adjacent to one of the interior doorways. Once again, we see the detailed stonework carved into the arch above the doorway.

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Doorway And Flowers, Caravanserai

Here is another more detailed image of the stonework.

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Arch Stonework Detail

After visiting, we stopped at a nearby store before boarding the bus for our next destination — the Underground City of Derinkuyu in Cappadocia.

Excavation of this city started about 800 BCE, as a shelter and safe haven for thousands of people from marauding armies. The tunnels of the city are carved in a soft volcanic rock. A elaborate system of tunnels extending at least seven (7) levels underground were made. Rooms were carved off the tunnels to serve as living quarters, storage areas, livestock, etc. The city also has several ventilation shafts to ensure adequate flow of air.

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Inside Underground City, Derinkuyu

Many of the tunnels are quite narrow, allowing only a single person to travel through, as shown below.

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Narrow Tunnels, Derinkuyu

The tunnels also have doors to protect against unwanted incursion into the city. These are rolling rocks that can only be closed by rolling across the tunnel from the inside. These doors can only be operated from the “inside” of the tunnel. Here is an example of one of these doors.

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Rolling Door, Derinkuyu

We headed to the city of Göreme, located among the Fairy Chimneys that Cappadocia is well-known for. We stopped at one location with a view down towards the chimneys.

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Fairy Chimneys Near Goreme, Cappadocia

The Fairy Chimneys are soft volcanic rock formations. This is a similar rock formation to that of the underground city. In years gone by, several houses have been carved out of the rock, as can be seen in this image.

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Path Through Fairy Chimneys, Cappadocia

In this image, I made capture one of the local women sitting near a grapevine — I believe she lives close by — gazing up at another group of tourists to the area.

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Woman Near Grapevine Among Chimney Formations

More later.

 

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